Line © OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL), checked by Global Adventurer.
The walk
From the picnic area at the Refugio de El Pilar, at 1,440 m, the path climbs through pines and out onto the bare crest of the Cumbre Vieja. It passes the Hoyo Negro, the main crater of the eruption of 1949, and Duraznero, and reaches its high point on Las Deseadas at about 1,945 m. Beyond Volcán Martín, which erupted in 1646, a long descent on black gravel and through pine forest leads past the Fuente de los Roques, the first water on the way, to Los Canarios.
It is 17.4 km one way with 638 m of climbing and 1,344 m of descent; allow about 7 hours. The grade is Hard: an easy path to follow, but long, with loose volcanic gravel underfoot.
The walk is one way and there is no bus to El Pilar: most people take a taxi to the start. No permit is needed.
There is no water, and no easy way off, for the first 14 km. The crest is open to wind and sun, cold in winter and often in cloud, and phone coverage comes and goes. Start by nine o'clock, and take more water than you think you need.
Route drawn by Global Adventurer along OpenStreetMap paths (© OpenStreetMap contributors, ODbL), with figures worked out from it. Check the forecast and the ground on the day: paths change.
Good to know
- Along the spine of the Cumbre Vieja, over cones and craters from the eruptions of 1646 and 1949
- One way: there is no bus to El Pilar, so most walkers take a taxi to the start
- No water until the Fuente de los Roques, 14 km in
- Loose black gravel, wind and sun on the crest; cold in winter
Summits on the way
- Deseada 1,933 m · passed close by
- Montaña del Pino 1,036 m · passed close by
Getting there
Start: Refugio de El Pilar · Free parking. 28.61435, -17.83653
Places to stay nearby
Rooms in and around La Palma: Booking.com → Expedia →
Affiliate links: if you book, Global Adventurer earns a small commission at no cost to you.
Paths change, and the weather decides the day. The line and figures come from OpenStreetMap and our own checks; take a map, check the forecast, and turn back if it isn't right.