Dordogne: Cénac to Castelnaud past La Roque-Gageac

Put in at the slipway by the old river port at Cénac, just above the bridge, and let the Dordogne carry you west through its valley of walnut groves and limestone cliffs. After about 3 km the river swings under La Roque-Gageac, a village built into the foot of an overhanging cliff, with traditional gabare boats moored along its quay. Below it the valley widens towards the castles: get out on the gravel shore above the bridge at Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, below the castle that faced Beynac across the river in the Hundred Years' War.

It is 7 km one way; allow about 1½ hours in a canoe or kayak and 2 on a paddleboard. The grade is Easy: a steady current, grade I, with gravel riffles and bends but no weirs or rapids.

Without a guide you may paddle here only while the Cénac gauge reads under 1.50 m, and the préfecture closes the river after storms. Children under 5 may not go, and a buoyancy aid is compulsory. Paddleboards may be used unsupervised only from 1 June to 30 September. Pass bridge piers well clear, watch for fallen trees, and keep away from the gabares at La Roque-Gageac. Dams far upstream can make the level change within hours. In summer this is a very busy stretch. Wear a buoyancy aid and check the conditions before you set off.

Route drawn by Global Adventurer along OpenStreetMap waterways (© OpenStreetMap contributors, ODbL), with figures worked out from it. Check the forecast and the ground on the day: paths change.